Germany - Auf Wiedersehen

I deal with change fairly well. I am not one who has a hard time saying good-bye. I didn't have much of a problem leaving my husband and two young boys for three weeks while I crossed the Atlantic Ocean to live the life of the carefree tourist. Okay, so I had no problem with that.

I will admit that I was a little nervous about flying over this big ocean for so many hours. (If something happens to the engine, we are going straight down into that freezing cold water where, even if we survive, no one will ever be able to find us--I made sure those kinds of thoughts were few and far between.) Mostly what I felt was pure excitement, and a little worry about my ability to communicate.

While I was in Germany, I enjoyed myself completely. I knew that my family was well taken care of. And I knew that in three short weeks I would be coming back home with an exciting adventure to share with them.

When my time in Germany was up, I knew it was time to go. After all, three weeks is a fairly long time to leave your kids for a vacation. I was starting to miss my family; I was looking forward to a big hug from Brett, and I had lots of kisses to plant on the sweet necks of my boys. It was time to come home.

As I looked out the window of the plane I was struck by the beauty of the clouds. And then I felt the sadness of saying good-bye. I missed Germany, and I hadn't even made it home yet.

I had such a wonderful time with Sigrid and her family. The weather could not have been better. I saw so many new things, tasted such wonderful food, learned so much--everything was perfect. Absolutely perfect.

When can I go back?

Germany - Alone in Munich

After two and a half weeks of being in Germany Sigrid was ready to let me loose on my own. If she could trust me on my own, I could trust me. With Pit's help we looked up all the info online about the train to Munich, checked the map for the places that I might want to see, and made a plan. On Tuesday morning Sigrid helped me buy my ticket and made sure that I got on the right train. It was so easy with an experienced native by my side.

The train was quite crowded that morning. My seat did not have much of a view and the folks nearby didn't look like they were interested in conversing, so I wrote some cards and got some reading done. When I arrived in Munich I searched out and found the tourism office, picked up an English city guide, and quickly made my way into the city center to see the Rathaus Glockenspeil in Marienplatz, which only goes off a once each day. I just barely made it.

The square was filled with people, all listening to the bells and watching the figures go round and round. I thought it would only go on for a minute or so, but it seemed to last quite a long time. I was glad that I had made it.

I made my way in the general direction of the Viktualienmarkt, snapping photos here and there of buildings and streets that looked interesting.


I enjoyed walking around the market and wished that I had taken more pictures of some of the stands. There were some amazing cheese and fruit stands. I had wanted to buy some physalis fruits, having just been introduced to them, but I kept walking thinking I would come back to them--only I didn't. (Next time...) I did take a photo of one of the flower stands.

I thought these geese were fun.

I thought this fountain was interesting, and I would like to know more about its background. Does the woman hold her beer stein year-round, or is it just for Oktoberfest. If she does not always hold the stein, what is her hand doing the rest of the time? Inquiring minds want to know.

We had seen a few street performers and "living statues" in Salzburg (which I neglected to photograph). In this photograph you can see the green-painted woman who also acted as a living statue. Kind of amazing, actually.

Although I was enjoying navigating the city center by myself, I was also interested in seeing Brett's other cousin Dagmar whom lives in Munich. I was a little nervous about meeting her as we had never met, but I figured this would be my last chance. She called me back around lunchtime and we were able to spend the rest of the afternoon together.

I took a train to her neighborhood and we had lunch together at her home. Afterwards, she drove me around a bit and we saw some things together.

We walked around the extensive grounds of Nymphemburg Palace. It was quite lovely, and I appreciate that the grounds are open to the public. Dagmar said she often comes to the park for a nice walk.

I was also interested in seeing the Englischer Garten. It is a large city park in Munich (larger than New York's Central Park, I just learned). There are a few sights of interest, but mostly it is a green area with paths, open fields, lakes, and a few eateries. I found that I enjoyed leisurely walking through the park on that pleasant afternoon getting to know Dagmar better. When we were ready for a break, Dagmar treated me to an iced schokolade at one lakeside cafe in the park, which was quite tasty.

The Chinese Tower in the Englischer Garten

I always love seeing policemen on horseback.

The Monopteros in the Englischer Garten.

I was kind of looking forward to making my way back to Regensburg on the train, but Dagmar felt more comfortable driving me back. There had been terrorist threats targeting the Oktoberfest in Munich, a few of the roads had to be closed, and President Obama encouraged American tourists to lay low/play it cool. It made Dagmar feel very nervous for my safety. I graciously accepted her offer, and we continued to have a nice visit together. However, I am looking forward to trying my hand a doing a solo-tour on my next visit.

Germany - Alone in Regensburg

The week before I left Germany I had an open day with no planned activities. Sigrid thought I might enjoy venturing out on my again in Regensburg. She was right. I enjoyed having a beautiful sunny afternoon with a couple of hours all to myself to explore the city, do some shopping, try to get just a little bit lost, and try not get myself into any embarrassing "I don't understand the language" situations.

Sigrid dropped me off at the Regensburg Arcaden, a shopping mall close to the old city. I walked around for a bit, did some shopping, and continued on towards the city. In order to get to the city I had to go through the train station, which was adjacent to the mall. I stopped at a public restroom there and was stuck looking for a fifty-cent piece in order to use the toilet. I heard someone talking and assumed (naturally) that she was perhaps talking to a friend in another stall. I continued looking for my change, and half a minute later a girl came out of one of the stalls and started talking to me (in German). I was still rummaging through my coin purse when I realized, "Duh! She was talking to me the whole time, trying to tell me that she'll be out soon and I won't have to spend the fifty cents to use the bathroom." I felt a little stupid not realizing that we were the only two in the bathroom and that she had been talking to me. But I also appreciated her kindness. In the end, it was only a moderately embarrassing "I don't know the language" situation, and I felt comfortable continuing my solo adventure in the city.

I made my way through a nice park in the old city.

"Rebecca, do you realize how lucky you are to have such nice weather while you are here?" Yes, I do!

This was an interesting little corner between the park and the city. It was a sunny afternoon with a lot of people walking through the park. You heard the happy noises of the school children playing next door. The walls around this "sunken" (for lack of a better word) courtyard looked so old. Then I noticed two men sitting at a table down below. I fully expected to see them playing checkers together or some such thing in this ancient setting. Instead, I saw that they were looking at a laptop computer together. The whole situation--the mix of old and new--struck me as kind of cool and a little funny.

I ordered a Hazelnuss Eis and was just a disappointed when the server started talking to me in English and German. I had only said a word and I was identified as a foreigner. Was my accent and pronunciation that bad? Actually, it's pretty comforting knowing that you will be able to communicate in English with most people there. (But I would still like to be able to communicate in German some day.)
I walked down to the Donau and tried to take a "look at me eating my hazelnut ice cream in a beautiful old German city aren't you jealous" photo, but it ended up not being very flattering. I don't expect that it actually makes you that jealous. I need to add "Brush up on taking good self portraits" next to "Learn German" on my list of personal goals.

View of Regensburg from the Old Stone Bridge. (This photo might be more likely to make you a little jealous.)

Just across the River from the old city of Regensburg is a city parks that stretches along the river. I wish that I had a couple of hours on this warm day to lay in the grass and read a book or take a nap or eat more ice cream or watch passers-by or just soak in the sights of the city and the river.

I came across these flowers growing on the fence of someone's garden. They were a beaufitul shade blue.

On my first tour Regensburg, weeks ago, Barbara took us to a church for women. It was not a convent, but rather a place for wealthy widows with nothing better to do or nowhere better to go. (That is obviously a rough description. After four or five weeks the details fail me.) Barbara's tour of Regensburg was a quick one where we saw so much in a relatively short time. She knew that I would be able to spend more time on my own during my stay. She was right. Unfortunately, I couldn't remember where this particular church was. I kept looking for it and was getting a little frustrated. I was determined not to leave old Regensburg today until I found it. I tried retracing my steps from the first tour and . . . success!

I had passed by it a few times before, but the exterior is so plain that I had not recognized it as a church. I was able to go in and look around a bit before meeting Sigrid again.

It was a beautiful day and ended up being the last one I spent in old Regensburg. It was perfect day to end with. I really grew to love Regensburg and look forward to coming back.

Germany - Oktoberfest

All those who know me know that I am not a beer drinker. However, it would stupid to come to Germany for the first time during Oktoberfest and not check it out. Elke was very excited to intruduce me to it. And since I had already bought my dirndl with Sigrid, I was fully prepared to go. As it happens, Patrick was the only one in our group who did not dress "appropriately."
In the Photo: Me, Elke's friend Julia, Elke's boyfriend Martin, Elke, Martin's friend Martin.

In the morning before we left Elke's apartment, Elke's boyfriend Martin offered to show me Lake Starnburg while we were waiting for the others to arrive. He drove me to the lake and we walked by Sisi's impressive summer residence. However, it was quite foggy by the water, and we were only able to see a few feet past the shore. Still, it was an enjoyable activity for the morning, and I was happy to get to know Martin a little better. I was so pleased that his English is so good and that we were able to communicate well. He tried very hard to make me feel comfortable while I was there. Elke's and Martin's friends Julia and Martin did not speak English well, and Elke and Martin were such good sports acting as translators throughout the day. (I approve, Elke--Martin's a very nice boy.)

Though it started out foggy in the morning, by the time we got to Munich the sun had come out and I felt a little overdressed in my tights and boots. I may even have gotten a little too much sun that day. (Coming home from Germany with too much sun?!? Who would've thunk?)

Martin participated in a couple of the games and was successful in winning his girl a little stuffed animal. Good job!

Martin was also kind enough to make sure I got to see inside two of the huge beer tents at the Oktoberfest. They were packed! We chose to eat lunch at one of the picnic tables outside instead.
No, I did not have any beer, but I did try my first Spezi. It's a cola-orange Fanta mix that is very popular. I am not a fan of cola, and I wasn't a fan of Spezi.

Patrick, Elke, Martin, and Julia went through an attraction called "Psychedelic." I love this groovy photo of them. (Julia didn't make it in the photo, so we used a stand-in.)

We walked around most of the Oktoberfest, and were able to see one of the horse-drawn beer wagons.

Oktoberfest is huge. There were lots of food stands, carnival games, and amusement rides. Not just little amusement rides, but full-sized roller coasters. Four of us chose to ride the ferris wheel.

I had not been on a ferris wheel since I was a kid. We had a good view of the grounds. Holy smokes! There are a ton of people there!

The ferris wheel had enclosed carts. I found that I was wanting a little more thrill--some wind in my hair at least. He really didn't want to do it, but I managed to talk Patrick into riding the high swings with me.

Again, we had a great view of the Oktoberfest. And I felt the wind in my hair. Aaaah. Fun!

We had been walking around most of the afternoon, but walked a little more to the center of old Munich where we go a bite to eat before taking the train back to the car. I love the flowers on this building.

Sigrid swears that I can pass for a Bavarian in my dirndl. Unfortunately, as soon as I open my mouth it's clear I'm not from around here. I did have fun dressing the part though.

Germany - Salzburg With the Family

Pit and Patrick drove down and met Sigrid and me at Elke's house. From there we drove together to Salzburg, Austria.

The first thing on the list of things to do in Salzburg was buy some Salzburger Mozartkugeln ("Mozart balls"). They are special chocolates for those with sophisticated taste. In other words, they are made with dark chocolate and include marzipan in the filling. I am not that big of a fan. However, Sigrid introduced me to another chocolate made by the same folks called Mozarttaler. These are milk chocolate discs with a greater chocolate to marzipan ratio. I am a fan of these. Pit and Sigrid sent me home with about three bags of the balls and two bags of the discs. Don't tell Mark and Marianne, but I only gave them the Mozart balls and kept all the discs in my house. In fact, I think I'll eat one now. Mmmm.

We walked down the well-known Getreidegasse, a street known for its old iron signs.

There was a festival going on the weekend we were in Salzburg. There were some dancers performing in a courtyard.

We enjoyed stopping and watching them for a bit.

We walked through old Salzburg, making our way up and up and up to the Festung Hohensalzburg (the "High Salzburg Fortress").

We spent quite a bit of time touring the fortress. I thought this was an interesting door, and took a picture for Marianne, who loves edelweiss.

The fortress is on a hill in the middle of the old city. On a beautiful day like the one we enjoyed, you can't help but snap a photo from every angle.

Such beautiful views.

A beautiful city.

And quite breezy in some places. Sigrid and I sat down for a minute in front of a window in the fortress wall. Here the wind will cool you down quickly.

You can see the fortress on top of the hill in the background.

On our way back to Elke's house we stopped by Chiemsee, the location of another one of Ludwig II's castles. By the time we got there it was a little too late to take the ferry to the island in this lake where the castle Herrenchiemsee is located. It had also started to cool down quite a bit. We walked along the shore of the lake for a bit before getting back on the road.

When we got to Elke's Pit discovered a problem with her table, and like a good dad he got right to work fixing it.

In this photo Patrick acts like he doesn't enjoy being doted on by his mother and sister (but we know he loves it!).

And so another day ends with smiles all around.

Germany - Castles With My Parents

On Friday (about two weeks ago) Sigrid and I drove down south of Munich to see the castles

Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein. My parents also wanted to see these castles while they were in Bavaria, so we arranged a meeting. What are the chances?

My parents pose for me by Hohenschwangau (the yellow castle on the left). From here you can also see Neuschwanstein (the light gray Disney castle) on the mountain in the background.

I pose with my mom on our walk up to Hohenschwangau. From here you have a nice view of the village below.

I love this moment between Sigrid and my father. While my mom and I were walking the grounds of the castle before the tour started, Sigrid and my dad were deep in conversation.

I really enjoyed Hohenschwangau. I think because it is so close to the impressive Neuschwanstein, it often gets overlooked. But Hohenschwangau is a castle that was lived in. This is where King Ludwig II spent most of his childhood. I really enjoyed this castle. It was huge and impressive, but it had been a family home.

With not a bad view.

Neuschwanstein, on the other hand, though beautiful, strikes me as such a lonely castle. It was built to be a memorial, had rooms that were never meant to be finished, was not finished as much as it was supposed to be, and was lived in for only a matter of days before the king was arrested, sentenced to an insane asylum, then found dead days later in Lake Starnburg.

The view from Neauschwanstein of a childhood home with happier memories makes me even more sad for the lonely king.

My feelings about Neuschwanstein were a little mixed, but I enjoyed the day completely. I loved being able to spend more time with parents in Germany. And I really enjoyed learning more about this time of history in Bavaria.

Sigrid and I left my parents and started making our way to Elke's house near Starnburg. But first things first. I need food! We had not had time to eat anything (except for the chocolate stashed in my mom's purse) between our tours. And, it took almost an hour to walk from Hohenschwangau to Neuschwanstein, down one hill and up a mountain (and this after an exhausting bike ride the day before!). Needless to say, I was tired and hungry. We stopped at an authentic Bavarian restaurant (outside of the tourist-filled village near the castles), where I had my fill.

Shortly before we got to Elke's house, Sigrid drove me to an overlook where we saw a nice view of Lake Starnburg. It was a cloudy, foggy day (see, not every day was sunshine), but I can imagine what it would like on a beautiful summer day. What I loved about this spot was the cows. They were wearing cow bells around their necks, and it was such a peaceful sound hearing them ring as the cows grazed in the field at the top of this hill.